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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The accolade has left the family utterly shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest shop securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.